Guide to Discovering Málaga: What to See, Eat and When to Go

Málaga has stopped being just the gateway to the Costa del Sol and become a destination in its own right. In a single day you can explore an Arab fortress, see original Picassos, eat espetos by the sea and round things off with a sweet wine in a century-old bodega. The mild climate almost all year round means nearly any date is a good time to go. Here's the essential guide, with verified opening hours and prices so you can plan without surprises.

The Alcazaba and the Roman Theatre

The Alcazaba is a fortress-palace of Arab origin (11th century) perched on the hillside, with courtyards, fountains and terraced gardens opening onto views of the harbour and the Mediterranean. At its foot lies the Roman Theatre, dating from the 1st century, which you can view from the outside free of charge and which sums up the city's layers of history at a glance. If your legs are up to it, climb up to Gibralfaro Castle along the path connecting the two monuments: the panoramic views from the top are the best in Málaga.

• Address: Calle Alcazabilla, 2, 29012 Málaga.
• The Roman Theatre, next to the entrance of the Alcazaba, can be viewed from outside at no cost.
• Admission is inexpensive; there is a combined Alcazaba + Gibralfaro Castle ticket that works out better value if you plan to visit both.

Málaga Cathedral, 'La Manquita'

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The cathedral's affectionate nickname, 'La Manquita' (the one-armed lady), comes from its unfinished south tower: it's missing an arm. It's an imposing Renaissance church, with richly decorated chapels and one of the best rooftop walks in Andalusia, where you stroll alongside the vaults with the city and the bay at your feet.

• Address: Calle Molina Lario, 9.
• General admission: €10, includes an audio guide in 10 languages.
• Opening hours: Monday to Friday from 10:30 to 18:30; Saturdays from 10:30 to 18:00; Sundays from 14:00 to 18:00 (last entry is 45 minutes before closing).
• The rooftop visit involves climbing a narrow spiral staircase of around 200 steps; it may be suspended in bad weather.

Museo Picasso Málaga

Pablo Picasso was born in Málaga, on Plaza de la Merced, and the city pays tribute to him with a landmark museum in the Palacio de Buenavista. The permanent collection spans decades of his work in a 16th-century building. A few minutes' walk away, you can round off the visit at the Casa Natal, on the same square.

• Address: Calle San Agustín, 8, 29015 Málaga.
• Admission: €13 general and €11 reduced.
• Free every Sunday during the last two hours of opening, and on special dates such as 18 May (International Museum Day).
• Seasonal opening hours: March-June and September-October from 10:00 to 19:00; July-August from 10:00 to 20:00; November-February from 10:00 to 18:00.

Food: what to eat in Málaga

Eating well in Málaga is easy and doesn't need to cost much. The star dish is espetos de sardinas: sardines skewered on a cane and grilled over a wood fire right on the beach sand, at the chiringuitos (beach bars). Order them between May and September, when sardines are at their best, and pair them with a beer or a local wine.

• Espetos de sardinas: the classic dish from a beachfront chiringuito.
• Gazpachuelo: a hot fish soup bound with mayonnaise, a real Málaga speciality.
• Ajoblanco: a cold almond and garlic soup, perfect for the heat.
• Porra antequerana: a thicker cousin of salmorejo, ideal on summer days.
• To finish: tortas de aceite (olive oil biscuits), figs and a glass of sweet Málaga wine in a bodega in the centre.

The Caminito del Rey

An hour's drive from the city, the Caminito del Rey is a walkway suspended on the wall of the Gaitanes Gorge, above the river. It used to be one of the most vertigo-inducing trails in Spain, and following its restoration it's now a safe and spectacular excursion. The route is one-way and gently descending, suitable for anyone with a normal level of fitness, but tickets need to be booked in advance as they sell out.

• Admission: €10 (maximum 10 tickets per purchase).
• The Reception Centre is 57.7 km from the city of Málaga.
• Getting there without a car: there is a shuttle bus (€2.50) connecting the access points.
• If you're driving, parking costs €2/day.

Beaches and nature

The quintessential city beach is La Malagueta, a short walk from the centre, with dark sand, palm trees and chiringuitos. If you're after somewhere quieter, Maro beach, to the east (near Nerja), offers coves of clear water set against cliffs. And to unwind without leaving the city's surroundings, the Montes de Málaga Natural Park has hiking trails, pine forests and panoramic viewpoints.

Muelle Uno, tours and the August Feria

Muelle Uno, in the harbour, is a pedestrian area of shops, restaurants and waterside terraces, ideal at sunset and for finishing up at the Centro Pompidou (the coloured 'cube'). To cover a lot of ground in a short time, segway or bike tours are a convenient way to link up the main landmarks of the historic centre. And if you travel in August, you'll coincide with the Feria de Málaga, the city's big festival: music, dancing, marquees and tradition over several days, with a daytime fair in the centre and a night-time fair at the fairground.

Practical tips

• The historic centre can be explored on foot; most monuments (Alcazaba, Cathedral, Picasso Museum, Roman Theatre) are just a few minutes apart.
• Book tickets online for the Picasso Museum, the Cathedral and, above all, the Caminito del Rey, which sells out in season.
• Take advantage of the free time slots: the Picasso Museum is free during the last two hours on Sundays.
• Save the espetos for a beachfront chiringuito lunch or dinner, the best way to enjoy them.